F-14 Tomcat EDF final

Well finally..it is final..this is the longest project so far and my advice is don't buy this unless you really want to..first of all it's made from EPS which is very fragile. Second it takes a lot of effort (which i believe not worth it) to make it stronger and setting up the retract wing and landing gear. This is my first and last EPS jet. Not going to buy any EPS jet anymore.

It look nice..but I had to fiberglassing EDF intake, rudder, elevator, part of wings..reinforcing the wing spar..heck this is taking more time than I anticipated..the retract landing gear..better go with air retract compared to the one that I purchased.. lot of effort making it to work.

Well not going to maiden it yet. Need to rest and admire her beauty..maybe she better be hangar queen rather a jigsaw puzzle.

Signing off..

F-14 Tomcat EDF work in progress 2

This by far takes the longest build for any of my model. Let's continue..

Wing swept mechanism..I'm using MG955 (0.17s/13kg torque). I know some may say this is one crappy servo but so far I have no problem with centering or overshoot. It just work fine. I've tested like hundreds of time before gluing this servo to the bay.

Pretty simple setup for the swept wing just be sure to stiffen up a bit the pushrod with some CF tube. The wing spar is the most important part for this plane. Since the spar is quite flexy, I reinforce with some plywood at the center of the frame. Now much stronger and less flex..








Dry fit. Will further test the wing retract servo before any gluing.

Only one pilot..it's pricey..I paid almost 6 bucks for this..


note: Make sure no play or wobble with the taileron. This jet basically fly with this full swing taileron. Fiberglass this part to make it durable.

F-14 Tomcat EDF work in progress

I'm now working on my F-14 tomcat. This baby takes a lot of patient and time to work with. The longest I think so far I spend my time on it.

I start with glassing (elevator, vertical stabilizer, duct area, and nose cone) all the critical parts, then enlarging ducted area to fit in 64mm fan, wiring, soldering, and a lot of test fit just to make sure nothing goes wrong. Test run both motor's and ESC's both connected together and share the same lipo. Everything seems to be OK. But will do stress test to the motor before fitting the back side.



ESC area need more space so enlarge the ESC area.




Waiting for servoless retract from HK.

Trex 500 Nitro Conversion

Finally my dream of having 500 nitro conversion come true..courtesy from bro Ishak (aka hakulhak MRC)..thanks bro...

Installation manual can be found here.

A few tips.

1. If you're using 13T pinion..make a slider hole to the main engine mount so that the pinion can hold on to the main gear.
2. Wiring a bit messy and require proper planning. So plan ahead.




Messy wiring..



I'm using the worn out fan shroud. Repaired with fiber cloth.

Quadcopter KK Board

KK Quadcopter basically is a helicopter controlled by 4 motors. It require 3 axis gyro's to control each motor to perform maneuver. It requires no servo to operate.

My setup for KK quad "+" config is the following:

1. Aluminum frame with plywood center piece. Each arm 290mm length.
2. DVD casing
3. 450 Landing skid
4. 4 x 18-20A ESC -- 72g
5. 4 x FC 28-22 Brushless Outrunner 1200kv -- 156g
6. KK Board
7. 10x4 CCW & CW props

I'm targeting AUW would be arround 800g.













Battery try underneath the center part

KK board safely inside CD case


Current weight 497g..
I can spend another 300 gram on rx(30g), wiring(30g) , motor's (est 170g) and ESC's (est 80g).

Update:


DONE!!! AUW 865g..

just to share my setup..

--> Initial setup for mode 1 radio..
1. Set the radio to plane mode
2. On radio and wait for ESC arming tone..if tone enter programming mode reverse throttle channel (3 on futaba)
3. Wait for ESC arming tone done..and move rudder stick to right and wait for KK board LED turn blue..if not then lower throttle trim while rudder stick move to right. Trim throttle until LED turn blue (mine require 4 clicks).
4. set radio atv aileron, elevator to 50%..set all pots trim to 50% (far clockwise = 0, moving anti = 100).
5. Check gyro direction by throttle up 1/4 stick (without props). Move the quad forward..forward motor should speed up..if not reverse gyro.
6. Reverse gyro by set the roll pot trim to 0, on radio and board move rudder stick to right and LED on KK board should blink..to change gyro direction move the elevator stick to counter the direction.
7. Do the same for aileron direction.
8. CCW goes to the forward and backward motor and CW props goes to left and right motors.
9. Make sure your gyro mounted on a level surface.
10. Overhead test to ensure all operation is working. Quad should resist any changes by speeding up motors.
11. Every-time powering up quad..turn rudder stick to the right to initialize flight.

More information regarding multirotor machine can be found:

http://www.kkmulticopter.kr/
http://www.kkmulticopter.com/
https://www.aeroquadstore.com/

Maiden flight..really nice..stable flight and easy to control..I like the feeling of flying a quad..







Night flying..

F-15 EPO 70mm Hobbycity

This is my latest addition to my fleets. The third EDF jet after Su-27 and Red Arrow. I had pretty bad experience with due to lack of understanding in EDF setup. This time my knowledge on EDF has grown and finally understand the setup on motor, DF unit, wattage, and their relation.

Back to F-15, First thing I like about this particular product is the EPO foam. The surface is so nice and much sturdy that EPS. I believe all EDF jet should be using EPO foam. The detail is remarkable. However my unit come with missing nose cone. Bummer. If you're ordering from OHS better ask them to check all the parts intact. Or else have to wait forever for it and having to confront their help desk with no chance of getting the missing item. Well need to find solution for this. Build your self. I'm using a special type of foam "dunno what it's called" but its' easy to cut and shape. Malay's call it "foam bunga kawin". It' green in color and quite brittle. Luckily I bought myself several sheet of FG cloth and WBPU to glass the cone. The result if satisfactory although not quite professional. Hey this is my first time.

Well the build is quite easy and straight forward. I'm using hot glue to attach all the parts. The only changes I made to jet is the ESC. I change it to 40A esc since I'm using 4S lipo 1750mah. I need to add 60gram of dead-weight on the tail since it's quite nose heavy. On full throttle I've got 37.5A with 620Watt of power. Should be getting more or close to 1:1 thrust. Lipo barely warm. Oh ya one thing to mention you need to balance the fan and check for the motor and fan installation (threadlock!!!). I remove the nose cone attach to the EDF fan for better balancing.

Well waiting for maiden..batu pahat or ladang tebu...

24 Dec 2010
Maiden day



a success...but this sucker needs 4S lipo instead of 3S..need more upgrade to provide more thrust needed...


I'm dreaming of airliner Airbus A380..huhu 4 EDF setup...

F-14 Tomcat EDF

It has been quite a while since my last post..recovering from surgery and some minor health related problem. Although not yet fully recover..the spirit of RC still strong.

Just received a bargain from mudah. Bought this F-14 Tomcat EDF. My third EDF to date and this one sure one hell of assembly. With swept wing mechanism and a lot of part to mod to make it airworthy. Thinking of glassing this body to make it a little stronger.

Let the spirit of topgun run in your vein..but this is going to be a very looooooong project..I'm not going to hurry on this..

alas my F-15 is also coming..





A few notable links that talk about F-14 assembly and modification

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8597&PN=1&SID=fedf6z8f9bb44fzb38c2cbfz9a8bc22d

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1068584

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1151024

I'm thinking to put the following setup

Motor: Turnigy 2615 EDF Outrunner 4800kv for 55/64mm it has 690g of thrust x 2 = 1380g which is 1:1 power to weight ratio (assuming AUW 1.35kg)

ESC: Hobbyking SS Series 50-60A ESC Should be more than enough